Anti-Aging Ingredients: Retinol & Retinoic Acid

by Kate Dee, MD

Retinol and Retinoic Acid are both forms of Vitamin A, the most important and effective of the anti-aging ingredients. Retinol is a topical Vitamin A that must be taken into the cell and converted to the active form retinoic acid inside the cell to have its effect. Retinoic Acid (Retin-A/Tretinoin) is the active form of the vitamin. Retinols are beneficial cell-communicating ingredients and antioxidants, helping skin cells become healthier by increasing the amount of skin support substances. Retinols increase the skin’s collagen production and slow its breakdown, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function. Retinol also lightens brown spots caused by sun exposure. Retinols also trigger more rapid epidermal cell turnover and exfoliation, making way for new cell growth beneath the surface.

Retinols are available in over-the-counter topicals in the forms of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinaldehyde. Retin-A is available by prescription only. It should be strongly considered by those who desire to keep their skin in top shape through the years.

The labeling of Retinol products is not regulated-- stay away from the retinol products at the beauty counter at the department stores-- they can label the product as containing retinol when there is only a trace ineffective dose. Retinol should be at least 1% concentration to be absorbed by your skin cells-- don't waste your money!

Retinols often cause redness and flaking, especially in the beginning of use. Some may need to start at a lower dose or less frequent application and advance to daily use over time.

by Kate Dee, MD

Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy is a proactive therapeutic non-surgical intervention for both women and men experiencing hair loss. PRP has been used with positive outcomesin medicine for 20 years in various applications including in plastic and cosmetic surgery, orthopedics and sports medicine. My previous posts on PRP explain the science behind it (Part I) and the PRP Facelift procedure (Part II). Recent research (article 1 and article 2) has shown the application of a similar technique applied to the scalp has shown promising results in reversing hair loss.

The growth factors in PRP can cause growth of the hair follicles by stimulating the stem cells and other cells of the hair follicle. This promotes healing and regeneration and stimulates new cellular growth. The primary purpose of using PRP in hair restoration is to stimulate inactive or newly implanted hair follicles into an active growth phase.

Does it work? As of this posting the extensive clinical trials are not complete to establish the effectiveness of this treatment. Early results in the literature are promising, and there are numerous anecdotal and case reports reflecting positive success. Joseph Greco, PhD in Florida has been one of the first pioneers in the field and he reports an approximate 70% response rate. This blog post from the women's hair loss project documents a testimonial from one of his patients. The internet is filled with before and after pictures, but it is too early to determine what percentage of people this technique can help.

We recommend 3 to 6 treatments 6 weeks apart, then extend the time intervals for maintenance, if there is a good response. If you are interested, call or schedule a consultation-- they are always free.